PAINTS AND STAINS
Almost every kind of surface, from drywall to concrete, needs protection from the elements. These hazardous elements can range from raging blizzards to innocent looking sunlight on a living room wall. The full total thickness of the paint that eventually ends up outside of your residence is usually about one tenth the thickness of your skin, and interior paint is even thinner. We ask a great deal of that layer of skin. What it can do is determined by a variety of factors, like the quality and type of paint or stain, and how well the walls are prepared and painted.
Paint and stain should be durable, resisting fading and abrasion and allowing repeated washings. Interior paint can go on with little spattering. An excellent interior stain or clear coat should resist fading, peeling, or yellowing, and also be easy to keep, free from impurities or waxes that could collect dirty residue and make cleaning or recoating difficult. External paints should dry with a toughness that resists deterioration from all sorts of exposure, and an elasticity that allows for constantly expanding and contracting surfaces. With their thorough penetration and amount of resistance to ultraviolet (UV) light, the stains and finishes on your home's exterior should give a similar high performance.
Historical Development of Paint and Stain
The oldest known paint was used by the painters of Lascaux, who ground natural pigments with water and a binder that may have been honey, starch, or gum. You might be wondering why these cave paintings have lasted a large number of years as the paint on the south area of your house is peeling after only three winters. Here's why: The continuous mild temperature, humidity, and dark interiors of caves are ideal preservatives. Your house, on the other hand, is exposed to all types of weather and conditions.
The Egyptians knew as early as 1000 B.C. that paint could protect as well as decorate. Beeswax, vegetable oils, and gum arabic were warmed and mixed with Earth and plant dyes to paint images which have lasted thousands of years. The Egyptians used asphalt and pitch to maintain their paintings. The Romans later used white lead pigment, developing a formula that could exist almost unchanged until 1950.
The Chinese used oil from the Tung tree to cement the Great Wall, and to preserve wood. The Chinese used gums and resins to make advanced varnishes such as, shellac, turpentine, copal, and mastic. The formulas and applications for those varnishes also changed little during the centuries.
Milk paint goes back to Egyptian times, was widely used until the late 1800’s when oil-based paints were introduced. Odorless and non-toxic, milk paint today has been revived as an excellent interior paint. Cassein, the protein in milk, dries very flat and hard, and can be tinted with other pigments. Like stains, milk paint needs to be coated with a wax or varnish, and is very durable.
Fashioned from hogs' bristles, badger and goat hair, brushes also changed little for many centuries. Bristles were hand bound, rosined, and greased, then hand laced into the stock of the brush. Hog's hair brushes, called China bristle brushes, remain a preferred brush for oil-based paints.
Pigments originally originated from whatever bore a color, from ground up Egyptian mummies to road dirt and grime. Most mineral or inorganic pigments originated from rust, potassium, sea salt, sulphur, alum (aluminum), and gypsum, among others. Some extravagant works incorporated precious stones such as lapis lazuli. Hundreds of organic pigments from plants, insects, and animals made up all of those other painter's palette.
Paints and stains changed little from the time of the Pharaohs to the Industrial Revolution. A book on varnishes released in 1773 was reprinted 14 times until 1900, with only slight revisions. However, the colder climates of northern Europe have brought about the necessity for more durable paint, and in the 1500s the Dutch artist Jan van Eyck developed oil-based paint.
Starting in the Middle Ages lead, arsenic, mercury, and different acids were used as binders and color enhancers. These and other metals made the mixing and painting process dangerous. Paints and varnishes were usually blended on site, in which a ground pigment was blended with lead, oil, and solvents over sustained high temperature. The maladies that arose from toxic exposure were common amongst painters at least before late 1800s, when paint companies started out to batch ready mix coatings. While exposure to toxins given off through the mixing process subsided, exposure to the harmful ingredients inherent in paints and stains didn't change much until the 1960s, when companies ceased making lead based paints.
World War I forced the U.S. painting industry to modernize. Manufacturers had to find a alternative to the natural pigments and dyes that originated from Germany. They started out to synthesize dyes. Today many pigments and dyes are chemically synthesized.
Enhancements in the painting industry have extended well beyond pigments. Water-based latexes have gained in level of popularity as a safe, quality option to oil-based paints. Latexes have improved from simple "whitewashes" to highly advanced coatings that can outlast oil-based products. Both oil-based and latex coatings are emerging yearly with notable improvements, such as the ground metal or glass that's now added to reflect harming UV light.
A milestone in the evolution of coatings occurred in the early 1990s with the introduction of a fresh class of paints and stains known as "water borne." Created by the necessity to comply with stricter regulations, water borne coatings decrease the volatile organic materials, or VOCs, within standard paint and stains. Poisonous and flammable, VOCs evaporate as a coating's solvent dries. They could be inhaled or absorbed through your skin, and create ozone pollution when exposed to sunlight.
THE MAKE UP OF PAINT AND STAINS Paints and stains contain four basic types of ingredients: solvents, binders, pigments, and additives.
Paint and Stain Solvents and Binders
Solvents will be the vehicle or medium, for the substances in a paint or stain. They determine how fast a finish dries and how it hardens. Water and alcohol are the primary solvents in latex. Oil-based solvents range from mineral spirits (thinner) to alcohols and xylene, to napthas. The solvent also includes binders, which form the "skin" when the paint dries. Binders give paint adhesion and longevity. The expense of paint depends in large part upon the quality of its binder.
Because water is the vehicle in latex paint, it dries quickly, allowing for recoating the same day. The odor that you notice when using a latex paint or stain is the "flashing," or evaporation, of the binder and solvents. The binders in latex are minute, suspended beads of acrylic or vinyl acrylic that "weld" as the paint dries. Latex enamels include a higher amount of acrylic resins for better hardness and durability.
Alkyds and oil-based paints are basically the same thing. The word alkyd is derived from "alcid," a mixture of alcohol and acid that acts as the drying agent. Both have the same binders, which might include linseed, soy, or Tung oils. Oil based and alkyd enamels may contain polyurethanes and epoxies for extra hardness. Alkyd paints come in powerful combinations such as two part polyester-epoxy for industrial use and a urethane revised alkyd for home use. Urethane boosts durability.
Water borne coatings use a two part drying system: water is the drying agent, and oils form a hard-drying resin. These new coatings match and sometimes out perform their oil-based cousins. They resist yellowing, are more durable, require only water clean-up, have little odor, and are non-flammable. One disadvantage: They raise wood grain and require sanding between coats.
Pigments; Paint and Stain
Pigments are the costliest ingredient in paint. Besides providing color, pigments also have an effect on paint's hiding power - its ability to protect an identical color with as few coats as possible. Titanium dioxide is the principal and most expensive ingredient in pigment. Top quality paints not only have more titanium dioxide, but also more finely ground pigment. Inexpensive paints use coarsely ground pigment, which doesn't bind well and washes off more easily.
Stain and Paint Additives
Additives regulate how well a paint contacts, or wets, the surface. They also help paint flow, level, dry, and resist mildew. Oil is the surfactant, or wetting agent, in oil-based paint. These paints have a natural thickness and capability to flow and level; they go on smoother than latex and dry more slowly, so brush streaks have a chance to smooth out. That is why oil-based paints have a tendency to run on vertical walls more than latexes do.
Latex paint has been playing catch up with oil-based paint over time. Today many latexes outperform oil-based paints and primers, thanks to thickeners, wetting agents (soapy substances that are also called surfactants), drying inhibitors, defoamers, fungicides, and coalescents. Defoamers keep latex paint from bubbling and leaving pinpricks (called "pin holing") in the paint as it dries. Bubbling is caused when the soap wetting agent rises to the top as it dries. The better the paint, the less pin holing you will have. It used to be that if latex paint was shaken at the paint store you had to allow it to settle for a few hours. This is no longer the truth with better paints, which can be opened and used right from the shaker without threat of pin holing.
Coalescents help latex resins bond, especially in colder weather. Oil-based paint, because it dries slowly and resists freezing, can adhere and dry in temperatures from 50°F to 120°F. With added coalescents and, believe it or not, antifreeze, some latexes can be employed in the same heat range, and even lower. Some exterior latexes can be safely applied at temperature as low as 35°F. Companies including Pratt & Lambert, Pittsburgh Paint, and Sherwin Williams have removed the surfactants to help their latex paints go on in lower temperature. Because the wetting agents have been removed, the latex dries faster.
UV blocking chemicals have been added to paints and stains to help slow the aging process. Sunlight is accountable for much of the break down of any covering. It fades colors, dries paint, and increases the expansion and contraction process that makes paint crack and peel off. UV blockers in paint may contain finely ground metals and ground glass which is currently being added for even more reflection of natural sunlight.
If you are in an area with tons of humidity, rain, and insects, you may need to consider adding a biocide or fungicide to your paint. Biocide deters insects, and fungicide counters mildew. Many coatings already contain some fungicide, but only in small concentrations because of strict interstate regulations.
Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens WA 98258
(425) 512-7400
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